Calf’s Brains au Plat au Beurre Noir
(Calf’s Brains with Black Butter Sauce)

John “Nino” Cardinali was well-schooled in the restaurant trade by the time he opened his eponymous Chez Cardinal on East 52nd Street in 1950 with a partner, Joseph Zazzi. Both were veterans of The Colony, long the vaunted headquarters of café society in New York City, and both adhered to the philosophy that a restaurant’s chief mission is to please its patrons.

Though he’d never actually worked in a restaurant before coming to the United States in the early 1920s, Cardinali, born in Rome, had attended restaurant schools in Italy, France, and England. He did so well in his chosen profession that by 1947 he was able to take over the ownership of Chez Jean, at 11 East 60th Street, renaming it Nino’s Chez Jean. (It became Le Monseigneur when Cardinali and Zazzi opened Chez Cardinal.)

By 1954 Cardinali was ready for yet another move, this time to the historic hamlet of Bedford Village in Westchester County, where, on Route 121, he opened Nino’s, with his Milan-born brother-in-law, Giuseppe “Peppy” Tirloni, as chef. Zazzi proceeded to bring on two new partners: Angelo Ferrero, the veteran head captain of the Barberry Room at the Hotel Berkshire, and Remo “Ray” Corti, formerly of Al Schact’s, the popular Manhattan steakhouse. Toward the end of 1955, however the three partners sold Chez Cardinal to Abraham “Peppy” De Albrew, a onetime professional dancer known as “The Argentine Sheik,” who promptly rechristened the restaurant Chapeau Rouge, the name of a supper club he’d opened in late 1933 and closed a little more than a year later.

Cardinali died in 1994 in North Palm Beach, Florida, at age 90. “It’s a mistake to think that superb cooking must necessarily be expensive,” he once told a reporter. “It may take more time to prepare a really fine dish, but it can be done reasonably. The best cooks are usually the thriftiest.”

Print Recipe

Calf's Brains au Plat au Beurre Noir (Calf’s Brains with Black Butter Sauce)

(No Ratings Yet)

Loading...

John “Nino” Cardinali attended restaurant schools in Italy, France, and England before coming to the United States in the early 1920s, so it's no surprise that this classic French preparation ended up on the menu of his eponymous Chez Cardinal on East 52nd Street in New York City. Nor is the dish's chief ingredient a surprise, either, for as Cardinali once told a reporter, "The best cooks are usually the thriftiest."

Ingredients

• 4 calf brains (2 pairs), separated into lobes
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
• 1 teaspoon baby capers, drained
• Kosher salt, to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

Instructions

1

Place the brains in a large bowl of cold water and soak for 1 hour, or overnight for optimal results. This step helps remove impurities and ensures a clean, mild flavor. After soaking, gently peel away any skin or membrane.

2

In a medium pot, bring lightly salted water to a simmer. Carefully add the brains and poach for about 20 minutes, or until tender. Remove with a slotted spoon and keep warm.

3

In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Swirl the pan occasionally, allowing the butter to turn a deep nut-brown color. Once the butter is browned and aromatic, quickly stir in the vinegar and capers. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

4

Arrange the poached brains on a serving dish, rounded side up. Spoon the hot beurre noir generously over the brains, ensuring they are evenly coated.

5

Sprinkle the chopped parsley over the top and serve immediately.