Captiva/ Florida

Blueberry Sour Cream Pie

Timmy’s Nook

15183 Captiva Drive
Captiva, Florida

1950 – 1994

In 1950 Thomas M. “Timmy” Wiles opened a little dockside restaurant on Captiva Island, the northern partner of Sanibel Island, that he christened Timmy’s Nook. Back in those days no causeway joined the two islands with the Florida mainland, so all comers came, in one way or another, by boat, as Teddy Roosevelt did in the early 1900s when he traveled to Captiva to trophy fish, or by plane, as Charles Lindbergh did when he regularly used the beach in front of the ’Tween Waters Inn as an airstrip.

Even though his doctor had ordered him to cut back on physical work, Wiles built Timmy’s Nook himself — from the ground up. Having previously been in the concrete-block business, he knew what he was doing. He laid the restaurant’s foundation, poured the concrete floor, and called an old machine back into service to make the concrete blocks for the rest of the building.

At first Timmy’s Nook was just a short-order sandwich place, but Wiles, who’d found himself serving lots of local fishermen, soon built a bigger menu that featured straight-off-the-boat seafood and all the appropriate accompaniments. This, it turned out, was the winning formula. Everything was good, really good: the homemade conch chowder, the stone-crab claws, the deep-fried barracuda fillets, the shrimp scampi, and the real-deal Key lime pie, to name just some of the standbys. And some things were so good — especially the crunchy grouper sandwiches and blueberry sour cream pie — that folks on Captiva still speak of them in wistful and even reverential terms.

Captiva began to change a lot with the opening of the Sanibel Causeway in 1963, but “The Nook” — as the locals had come to call it — stayed pretty much the same. The fried seafood platters were as good as could be gotten anywhere along Florida’s Gulf Coast, and plenty of customers still arrived by boat, tying up just southwest of Marker 38 to get a bite to eat before going on their way.

A guidebook of the era described Timmy’s Nook as “a small green hut and marina” with “the requisite tarpon on the wall.” It was, to be sure, an unpretentious eatery, with cool breezes from the Gulf of Mexico as the only form of air-conditioning and a black-chalkboard menu that could change as often as the fish came in. And there was that sign, visible to all who entered: “The difficult age has come and lit / Too tired to work . . . too poor to quit . . .”

When Wiles died in 1970, his wife, Beulah, who’d some years earlier retired from her long-held position as Captiva’s postmistress, ran the restaurant until three of their seven daughters — Barbara, Dona, and Linda — took over. In 1976 came a renovation and enlargement of Timmy’s Nook, though its unpretentious ambience was left undisturbed. Outside there were weatherworn picnic tables covered with red-checkered vinyl tablecloths, and as you ate lunch you could peer down through the gaps in the floorboards and see the waters of Pine Island Sound as they lapped gently against the shore.

By the early 1990s Timmy’s Nook had claimed the title of Captiva’s oldest restaurant and was often assigned, at least on an informal basis, “historic” or “landmark” status. Its days, however, were numbered. In 1994 the Wiles family sold Timmy’s Nook to Andreas Bieri, a local restaurateur and co-owner of another Captiva landmark, The Mucky Duck. It served its last meals on April 15, 1994.

Timmy’s Nook was soon demolished, its concrete remains used as landfill for the modern and much larger restaurant that Bieri built in its place. The Green Flash, so named for the fleeting spot of intense green light that you can sometimes see as the sun disappears over the horizon at sunset, opened on December 8, 1995.

Blueberry Sour Cream Pie, the signature dessert at Timmy’s Nook, later appeared on the menu at The Mucky Duck. But if you want to make it yourself, here’s the original recipe.

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Baltimore/ Maryland

Maryland Crab Cakes

Thompson’s Sea Girt House

5919 York Road
Baltimore, Maryland

1885 – 1993

Thompson’s Sea Girt House occupies a storied place in American culinary history, for it was there, in Baltimore’s southeastern waterfront district, that crab imperial was invented sometime in the late 19th century.

In 1885 George Thompson, Jr., acquired a hotel at the foot of Newkirk Street in Canton, a neighborhood in Baltimore’s outer harbor, and converted it into a restaurant. Thompson was an enterprising and colorful character; legend has it that each morning he’d step out onto the 450-foot pier off his restaurant to shoot a half-dozen ducks over the Patapsco River. Thompson’s Sea Girt House became known for its jumbo soft crabs, fish, and fried-chicken dinners, which for many years were served with a salad, French fries, and hot muffins for 60 cents a plate. Then, of course, there was the crab imperial, a gratin of crabmeat bound with a mixture of diced onions, green bell pepper, and pimiento in a thick cream sauce, which quickly became Thompson’s signature dish. (Today’s version of the dish is generally much lighter than the original so as not to suffocate the sweetness of the crabmeat.)

Thompson’s decision to locate his restaurant where he did turned out to be fortuitous. In 1898 Lowrey’s Place, a popular beer garden in nearby Colgate Creek, closed to make way for River View Park, an amusement park that was to be built at Point Breeze off Broening Highway in East Baltimore. River View Park opened in 1890 with all the requisite attractions: a quarter-mile-long roller coaster, a “Human Roulette Wheel,” a swimming pool, and bandstand concerts that were reported to draw up to 60,000 patrons. (Future jazz legends Eubie Blake and Noble Sissle met, and began their songwriting partnership, while working there as “The Dixie Duo” shortly after World War I.) Thompson’s Sea Girt Restaurant happened to be right on the streetcar line that took visitors to and from River View Park, which had come to be known as the “Coney Island of the South.”

Maybe, though, it was all just too good to be true. River View Park somehow survived five major fires, but it could not seem to survive the long dry spell of Prohibition, which went into effect on January 16, 1920, and would not be repealed until December 5, 1933. It closed in 1929. Western Electric Company bought the property at auction later that year, tore down the amusement park, and built its mammoth Point Breeze Works on the site.

By the 1940s, a new generation of Thompsons—George W., Sr., the great-grandson of the founder, and his wife Mary Margaret, whom he’d married in 1927—were running the family restaurant. In 1949 they bought Cahill’s Bar, a liquor-store-turned-tavern at York Road and Belvedere Avenue, and began making preparations to move their restaurant there. As original location was being demolished to make way for a marine terminal, they were reopening Thompson’s Sea Girt Restaurant at its new location.

George ran the kitchen, Margaret the front of the house. The décor was nautical through and through, of course, with backlit porthole windows and a big, beckoning lobster tank. Mrs. Thompson knew many of the customers by name.

The family was struck by tragedy in 1969 when George Thompson was fatally stabbed in a robbery at the couple’s home. In time their son, George W. Thompson, Jr., known to all as “Tommy,” stepped in to help run the restaurant.

“Nationally famous landmark for sea food and prime beef, specializing in Maryland crab dishes,” Thompson’s Sea Girt House billed itself. The beef, in fact, didn’t always take the back seat. In 1972 George Jr. made news when he went to the Maryland State Fair in Timonium and bought the grand champion steer, a 1,035-pound Hereford, for a record $3.02 a pound. But the crab cakes reigned supreme, to the point that by 1981 Thompson’s was dispatching them in insulated containers via Federal Express—six for $24, plus tax and shipping—to devotees all over the country. (“A breed apart from the usual,” New York Magazine christened them. “Toothsome, moist, and delicious.”)

The Thompsons, mother and son, continued to operate the restaurant until 1983, when they sold it to Tomas Sanz, a talented Spanish-born chef, and two partners. Sanz had been running the kitchen at Tio Pepe Restaurante, a landmark Spanish restaurant in Baltimore that at the time was owned by his older brother. Sanz brightened the menu with his own creations—a Spanish salad, for example, and filet of sole Alcazar with bananas and hollandaise—while keeping the specialties that had made Thompson’s Sea Girt House famous. But it was, perhaps, a losing battle. A lack of off-street parking in the area and too much petty crime for a mostly older clientele were said to have contributed to the restaurant’s demise. It closed on December 31, 1993.

In something of a postscript to the story, however, Thompson’s Sea Girt House wasn’t quite finished. As it turned out, Mrs. Thompson had kept the rights to the restaurant’s name, and in 1987 she and her son had opened another Thompson’s on 83rd Street in Ocean City, Maryland. She greeted customers there, as she had always done, until the restaurant closed in 1997. Margaret Mary Thompson died five years late at the age of 92. Her son recalled at the time that her favorite meal at Thompson’s began with a Crown Royal Mist with a twist, followed by crab cakes, stewed tomatoes, and fried eggplant.

Here is the recipe for the Maryland Crab Cakes served at Thompson’s Sea Girt House.

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Parma/ Ohio

Corn Fritters

Bessie Miller’s Broadview Club

6048 Broadview Road
Parma, Ohio

1913 – 1980

Through most of the 20th century, Bessie Miller’s place was the crown jewel of country-style dining in Cuyahoga County. To at least three generations of Clevelanders, the ride south to Parma would be rewarded with some of the best food anywhere —certainly something far, far better than standard roadhouse fare.

Bessie Bering was born in Hungary, in a little town outside of Budapest, in 1885. Sometime around the turn of the century she decided to emigrate to the United States, and, like many thousands of other Hungarians, found her way to Cleveland. (In time Cleveland would have the second-largest Hungarian population in the world.) She was seventeen.

Bering’s first job was as a dishwasher, but she clearly had bigger things in mind. In 1905 she married Fred Miller — a kindred spirit, born in Vienna, whom everyone called “Fritz” — and by 1913 the young couple had saved enough to buy the All Wien Social Club at 6048 Broadview Road in Parma. They renamed it the Broadview Club. It was pretty much a farmhouse with a sign out front, and the Millers, the story goes, served their first chicken dinners on the front porch by the light of coal oil lamps.

It was Bessie’s idea, when guests began to arrive in numbers, to have a horse-drawn carryall meet them where the streetcar line ended, at Broadview and Pearl. Suddenly business boomed as never before, and before long Bessie and Fritz branched out into catering. Tragically, however, in 1933, on the day the Millers were to have celebrated their twenty-seventh wedding anniversary, Fritz died, leaving Bessie a widow.

It was the worst point of the Great Depression. More than 11,000 of the nation’s 25,000 banks had failed. The national unemployment rate had reached 25 percent. But Bessie Miller made it through.

In 1935 Bessie married Edward W. Roski, and while she took her new husband’s last name the restaurant continued to be known, and advertised, as Bessie Miller’s Broadview Club. It achieved some measure of fame nationwide for its fried-chicken dinners and clambakes, but “The House of Fine Food and Liquors,” as it came to bill itself, also served steak, lobster, duck, and frog-leg dinners as well as homemade pastries that included, in keeping with Bessie’s Hungarian heritage, just about the best apple strudel anywhere. Most amazing of all, perhaps, was that Bessie Miller’s Broadview Club did so well as a seasonal operation, opening on May 1 each year and closing at the end of October.

Bessie Miller was ahead of her time in another way: When it came to the kitchen, at least, she was something of a feminist. “Naturally, my cooks are women,” she told a reporter in 1951. “Some have been with me from the start.” And what about men? “Men,” she explained just as matter-of-factly, “are all right to wash dishes and get dressed up to greet guests.”

Bessie and Eddie were doing well enough to travel abroad and winter each year one of their homes in Florida, where they took friends deep-sea fishing on their 35-motor launch and had, as one newspaper reporter described it, “a series of good times entertaining their friends — on boat or at home.” (The friends included Charlie Feldkamp, who owned the Chester Grill in Cleveland, and Bob and Millie Wertheim, who owned Wertheim’s Chick Inn in Northfield).

By the 1960s Bessie Miller had turned the operation of the restaurant over to her stepson, Earl Roski. Even in her 80s, though, she came up from Florida once a year to make sure, as one account put it, “that her original recipes are faithfully followed.” Edward Roski died in 1972, and Bessie died in 1976 at age TK.

In 1980 Bessie Miller’s Broadview Club was sold to new owners, who soon renamed  it “Inn the Woods Restaurant & Lounge.”

Here’s the recipe for the Corn Fritters that were served at Bessie Miller’s Broadview Club:

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