In 1948 two budding restaurateurs, Eugene Van Kirk and Russel Kobow, transformed a grand old home at 655 Graceland Avenue in Des Plaines, Illinois, into a tearoom they named the Charm House. In the mid-1930s the two-story mansion did a brief turn as a funeral home, but Van Kirk and Kobow had the requisite imagination to see it as a perfect venue for offering their patrons comforting home cooking in a warm, inviting atmosphere.
The Charm House boasted a perfect location and a fine pedigree. Originally the residence of J.A. (Jake) Sigwalt, a prominent local businessman, it sat diagonally across from the town’s bustling post office, at the corner of Graceland and Webford Avenues, and had been built in 1930 by one of Sigwalt’s companies.
The Charm House was open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., except on Wednesdays, and from the beginning catered to the typical tearoom clientele: bridge and garden clubs, sororities, shoppers, bridal parties, and the like. Its specialties included Southern fried chicken and seafood, with lunches ranging from 85 cents to $1.50 and dinners from $1.65 to $2.75.
In 1949 the Charm House’s address changed to 661 Graceland Avenue when the city instituted numerous changes in its street-numbering system.
By 1952, despite its prime location and superior reputation, the Charm House was in financial trouble. In February of that year Van Kirk and Kobow put their 75-seat establishment up for sale, with classified newspaper ads saying that it was a “nice business” with “good equipment,” while adding “Will sacrifice.”
But apparently there were no takers, and in June everything inside the restaurant—from the kitchen equipment, fixtures, and furnishings to the dishes, glassware, and silverware—was offered for sale. As soon as everything was gone, the City of Des Plaines bought the Charm House and the property on which it sat, which adjoined a proposed municipal parking lot, for $25,000.
In 1972 Van Kirk, then 50, found himself in the news after he bravely thwarted an attempt by two gun-wielding men to steal his car. Kobow, who before his brief tenure as a restaurateur had been an assistant instructor for Edward Gould, an esteemed concert pianist and music teacher, died in 1980 at age 69.
Frozen Fruit Salad
Frozen fruit salads reached their height of popularity in the 1950s, reflecting the era's fascination with gelatin molds, convenience foods, and recipes that could be prepared ahead of time. This one, a featured item on the menu of the Charm House Tea Room in Des Plaines, Illinois, balances creamy richness with the bright flavors of fruit and represents a nostalgic nod to mid-century dining.
Ingredients
- 1/4 cup diced peaches
- 1/4 cup diced apricots
- 1/2 cup Bing cherries, halved and pitted, plus extra for topping
- 1/4 cup crushed pineapple, drained
- 2 regular marshmallows, chopped (or about 24 mini marshmallows)
- 1/3 cup chopped pecans
- 1/2 cup mayonnaise, plus extra for topping
- 1/3 cup powdered sugar
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 cup heavy cream, whipped (to yield 1 cup)
- Crisp lettuce leaves, for serving
Instructions
In a large bowl, combine the peaches, apricots, cherries, pineapple, marshmallows, and pecans. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and salt. Add the mayonnaise and stir until the ingredients are well coated.
Gently fold in the whipped cream, ensuring the mixture remains light and airy.
Transfer the mixture to a freezer-safe tray or dish, spreading it evenly. Freeze until firm, at least 4 hours or overnight.
To serve, use an ice cream scoop to create rounded servings. Arrange each scoop on a bed of lettuce leaves and, for a final flourish, top with a dollop of mayonnaise and a cherry.
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