Tortoni Ice Cream

Here’s the story, in Luigi Mirisola’s own words (as captured by syndicated newspaper columnist Robert Peterson), of how Luigi’s Spaghetti House, in Boynton Beach, Florida, came to be:

“I didn’t go into the restaurant business until I was 50.

“I’d been in life insurance for 28 years and had worked my way up to a district managership in Boston. But I harbored a dream of some day moving to a mild climate and starting a café. I loved to fix spaghetti for my friends, and my wife made the world’s best meat sauce.

“Then we took a Florida vacation and happened to see a rundown café for rent. It had just one room with tables, plus a kitchen and tiny living quarters in the rear. My old dream came into focus and, after talking it over with my wife, we decided to strike out on a brand-new career. I went back to Boston, sold our home, took our savings of $7,000, moved here, and rented the cafe for $165 a month.”

As Peterson told the story in his 1967 book, New Life Begins at Forty, the restaurant was anything but an instant hit. Things were difficult at first, with Luigi’s “spaghettoria” seeming like just another hash house on the Dixie Highway. But in time Luigi and Mary Mirisola built up a loyal clientele and then acquired a well-heeled partner who helped finance the expansion of the restaurant to four dining rooms, 200 seats, and a real Italian patio, complete with fountain.

“I can still hardly believe it,” Luigi told Peterson. “I’m making more than ever before, and was never happier.”

In 1969, however, Mirisola grew upset at rumors that he’d sold the restaurant, and he sent this message to a columnist for the Palm Beach Post: “When and if I ever sell — which I have no present or even possible intention of doing, at the moment — I will tell you first, I will tell EVERYBODY!”

The Mirisolas owned and operated Luigi’s Spaghetti House until June 1972. Luigi died in 1990 at age 84; Mary died in 2006 at age 94.

Here is the recipe for the Tortoni Ice Cream that was served at Luigi’s Spaghetti House.

Print Recipe

Tortoni Ice Cream

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Ingredients

• 1 quart heavy or whipping cream
• 3 eggs
• 1 ounce almond extract
• 1 ounce light rum
• 1 cup sugar, extra fine if possible
• 6 macaroons, crushed
• 8-9 maraschino cherries, cut in half
• 1/2 cup finely chopped walnuts or pecans
• 16-18 4-ounce paper cuplets

Instructions

1

Place mixing bowl and beaters in refrigerator or freezer until cold. Pour heavy cream in bowl and beat until it starts to thicken. Add eggs, almond extract, rum, sugar, and macaroons and beat at high speed until batter forms peaks. Spoon into cups to fill.

2

Pour cherry juice over top for color (if desired), sprinkle with chopped nuts, and top with cherry half. Place in freezer until firm and serve. Tortoni may be stored for a long period of time in freezer. When ready to serve, remove from freezer for 10-15 minutes.

Notes

The original recipe from Luigi's Spaghetti House, as published in 1965, included uncooked eggs, If you're wary of using raw eggs in recipes, consider buying in-shell, pasteurized eggs instead.